Between July and October 1915 17,000 men died as they fought for control of Le Linge in the Vosges mountains, a tiny part of what was then the border between France and Germany. In 1969 the battlefield was designated a war grave. You can walk there among the trenches and fortifications, where in places the opposing lines were close enough to hurl stones and insults as easily as firing bullets. Rusting barbed wire litters the landscape and crosses mark places where the remains of French and German soldiers, identified and unknown, have been found. It's a poignant and affecting place; a beautiful landscape scarred by tragedy.